When a sailing season is over, then it is time to prepare the boats for the cold winter months. You must take the necessary measures to prepare your boat for this time. It is important that you protect your engine from the elements so that you can use it as soon as the weather turns warm. To winterize a boat, you must clean it, make any necessary repairs, protect its engine, and store it in a way that protects it from the elements and preserves your investment. Make sure you follow all the steps.
Steps
Method 1 of 3: Winterize the Engine
Step 1. Flush the engine with fresh water
This process is used to remove salt, dirt, and other contaminants from the engine, and prevent clogging and corrosion. Depending on the type of motor you have, there are a variety of methods to perform a download.
- For older outboards, you will need to get some “ear muffs” and connect them to the engine's water intakes. Connect a water hose to the opening over the ear muffs, turn on the water, and let the engine run in neutral until the water runs clear.
- Some newer outboards have built-in water hose fittings and a flush system that you can use without running the engine. If you have this type of motor, you can connect a hose directly to it and let the water run for about 10 minutes. Check your owner's manual (if you have one) for the correct download procedure.
Step 2. Stabilize the fuel
If you don't stabilize it, it can degrade during the winter, causing gummy buildup that clogs engine supply lines. Fill the fuel tank to approximately 95% capacity. Add a fuel stabilizer (such as Pennzoil Fuel Stabilizer, PRI-G, or Stabil). Follow the directions on the stabilizer container to determine the proper amount to add. Run the engine for 10-20 minutes after adding stabilizer to distribute stabilized fuel.
Another alternative may be to drain the fuel tank and supply lines completely to leave the tank empty for the winter
Step 3. Mist the engine cylinders and carburetor intakes
Covering the inside of the engine with fogging oil will help prevent corrosion. Consult your owner's manual or engine manufacturer's instructions to determine the best type of fogging oil and the proper procedure for fogging your engine.
- On some types of engines, you can simply spray fogging oil into the engine's air intake while it is running. Spray a generous amount of fogging oil into the intake and then disconnect the fuel line. Keep spraying and let the engine continue to run until it runs out. The engine is likely to emit quite a bit of white smoke during this process.
- If you've completely drained the fuel from the engine, another alternative may be to remove the spark plugs and spray the fogging oil directly into the spark plug holes. Rotate the engine by hand several times to cover the spark plugs. Reinstall the spark plugs, but don't connect the wires. This will prevent the canister's pistons from being exposed to air, moisture, and other caustic materials when not in use.
Step 4. Flush the engine block with antifreeze
Using this item will prevent damage that can result from water freezing inside the engine block. Propylene glycol-containing antifreeze is environmentally friendly and is recommended by almost all manufacturers. Uses the highest concentration of antifreeze available (-100). The procedure varies depending on whether you have an inboard or outboard motor.
- If you have an outboard motor, you can connect an antifreeze kit to the engine's water intake after flushing it with fresh water. Leave the engine running after fresh water flushing, disconnect the water hose, and connect a hose connected to an antifreeze tank to the water intake. Let the engine run while connected to the antifreeze tank until it is empty.
- For an inboard engine, take a large bucket of antifreeze, usually about 5 gallons (20 liters), and insert the end of the water intake hose from the Kingston valve into the bucket. Let the engine idle until you see the antifreeze run through the exhaust outlet for at least 30 seconds. Reattach the inlet hose to the Kingston valve.
Step 5. Change the oil
If you have an inboard engine, you should change the oil in both the engine and the transmission. This procedure works best right after using the canister, as the oil is still hot. Hot oil flows more easily. Additionally, any contaminants or impurities will be suspended, facilitating their removal. This is also a good time to replace the oil filter.
- Consult your owner's manual for recommendations on the type of oil to use. Motor oil is available in a variety of viscosities and maintenance classifications. Also, each engine requires different oil properties.
- If possible, you should drain the old oil by removing the crankcase plug and letting the oil drain into a tray or cardboard box lined with a garbage bag.
- If this method is not convenient, you can pump out the old oil with a manual or electric pump. Some change-over devices can extract the old oil and fill the crankcase with new oil.
- Dispose of used oil at a recycling facility.
Step 6. Drain and replace the gearbox lubricant
This will remove water and other contaminants that can cause rust and corrosion. Warm up the engine before draining the lubricant from the gearbox, as this will help the lubricant flow more easily and dislodged contaminants.
If the lubricant looks cloudy or you notice metal shavings suspended inside it, it's probably time to get your gearbox repaired
Step 7. Disconnect the battery, and store it in a dry and safe place for winter
The battery should be fully charged when you store it. You must maintain the charge and the water level while the battery is in storage.
Method 2 of 3: Cleaning and Maintaining the Boat
Step 1. Check the hull for pressure cracks and bubbles
If you detect cracks in the helmet, this may indicate a more serious problem that should be evaluated by a professional. If you see bubbles in the gel coat on the hull, puncture them, drain the water, and patch them with an epoxy-based filler such as West System or West Marine Gelcoat Repair Kit.
Step 2. Clean the bottom of the boat
If you find slag and barnacles attached to the bottom of the boat, you can use a scraper to remove them and a pressure washer to remove the dirt. If you choose this method, you should be aware of local laws governing pressure canister washing procedures.
You can prevent future build-up of dirt by treating the bottom of the can with wax (such as 3M Marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax)
Step 3. Clean the inside of the boat
Apply a mild all-purpose product to clean interior surfaces and remove dirt. If necessary, you can vacuum and wash the rugs.
- If your boat has interior vinyl components, you should treat them with a vinyl cleaning and protection solution such as 3M Marine Vinyl Cleaner.
- Remove all obvious mold with a mold cleaner (such as Star Brite Mildew Stain Remover).
Step 4. Protect electronic devices and accessories
Remove all possible devices and store them in a dry environment. Spray any exposed electronic accessory with a moisture-displacing lubricant (such as Corrosion X or WD-40).
Step 5. Check the propeller and shaft of the boat
Check the boat for general wear and dented or bowed blades. Replace damaged parts and make any necessary repairs when winterizing your boat.
Method 3 of 3: Store the canister
Step 1. Decide between wet and dry storage
Dry storage can basically be less expensive than storing the boat in water. Also, cans stored dry are less likely to develop bubbles on their hulls. However, cans that are stored dry may be more susceptible to damage from sudden freezes than those that are stored in water. Take the local weather into account and discuss your options with the boating experts in your area.
Step 2. Store the canister in a climate controlled environment if possible
You may want to rent a controlled environment storage unit, use a heated garage on your property, or store the boat in a dry stacking facility. These options help protect your boat from the elements and can be especially important in areas where hurricanes and winter storms are a concern.
Step 3. Cover the boat
This is a good idea even if you plan to store it in a heated garage or other type of storage facility. The cover should be snug, waterproof, and sturdy enough to hold up if it receives snow or debris. Any type of deck you choose should be well ventilated to prevent moisture from being trapped inside the boat. Some popular types of boat covers are:
- Heat shrink wrap. The main drawback of this element is that it can trap moisture and lead to mold growth if not treated and ventilated properly.
- Custom fabric covers. Although the initial cost of a fabric cover is likely to be high, you can reuse it for many years and it will basically cost you less than repeat applications of heat shrink wrap. In addition, the fabric covers have the advantage of being well ventilated and easy to remove and put on.
- Polyethylene tarps. These elements are a fairly inexpensive solution for covering boats, but the one you choose should be thick and solid to prevent damage to the boat from accumulation of snow and debris. You may need to build a wooden or PVC tubing frame that you can place over the boat to support the tarp.
Advice
- Lubricate any external accessories.
- Prepare a checklist that details the steps of the winterization process, and check off each one upon completion.
- Take all used oil to an authorized recycling center for proper disposal.
- Consult your owner's manual to verify instructions and prepare your particular boat model.
Warnings
- Avoid disconnecting the battery if the boat is going to be in the water during the winter.
- Fogging oil is sticky and can stick to an injector if the boat has a fuel injected engine.