Clean bikes not only look better, they also perform better and even go faster. Washing your bike regularly will help you avoid costly repairs or damage from rust and corrosion, and doing it right will only take about 10-15 minutes.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Clean the powertrain
Step 1. Always clean the powertrain first, which powers the bike
The powertrain is the transmission of the bicycle. It is made of 4 parts: a cassette (set of gears on the rear wheel), a rear derailleur (metal arm on rear wheel), chain rings (large gears next to the pedals) and chain. The powertrain keeps the bike moving, but as dirt, rust, and grime build up, it becomes more prone to skipping as it moves and experiencing chain problems.
Frequent cleaning and maintenance of the powertrain can add years to the life of your bike
Step 2. Pick up the bike or turn it over so you can pedal without moving
The chain must move on the bike to clean it properly. If you don't have a bike stand, turn it over and rest it on the seat and handlebars. Make sure to put a towel or cloth that you don't mind getting dirty under the bike to avoid scratching the seat or handles.
Step 3. Use a cloth and a biodegradable degreaser to scrub the chain
Biodegradable degreaser, also known as a "biodegradable solvent," removes grime like soap, but does not ruin or weigh down the chain. You can get it in most bike shops near the oil. Pour some onto the rag and wrap the chain loosely, so the chain can move freely between your fingers. Pedal the bike with your other hand, making the chain move for 2-3 cycles.
- Keep moving the chain through the rag 2 or 3 more times, applying a little pressure with your fingers, up, down, and to both sides of the chain.
- Wipe off any accumulations of grease or grime that can still be seen.
Step 4. Use a brush or an old toothbrush to clean between the gears
You should clean between the ridges of the gears so dirt and dirt don't get into the cassette. Dip the brush in a mixture of water and biodegradable solvent, and run it through each set of gears. If it's simpler, hold the brush in place while turning the pedal with your other hand.
Use a screwdriver or pick to remove accumulated deposits from hard-to-reach places
Step 5. Clean debris from the outside of the derailleur and chain rings
If they look dirty, you should. Use a damp cloth, brush, and a bit of degreaser to get to all the nooks and crannies possible, and make your bike squeaky clean. Let the wheels do all the work as far as possible, holding the rag or brush in a specific place while you turn the pedals. Places that often go unnoticed are:
- The safety casters and small sprockets on the derailleur arm, which also need cleaning.
- The rear (close to the bike) of the chain rings.
- The frame of the bicycle, the joints and the hinges near the chain.
Step 6. Buy a special cleaner if your chain is too dirty
If a rag and toothbrush won't remove the grime, you may need to purchase a cleaning tool. Add a degreaser to the box and attach your chain. You can then turn the pedal of the bike while holding the tool, which brushes and scrubs the chain links. They typically cost $ 20 or $ 30 and come with a degreaser and hand brush for hard-to-reach places.
Step 7. Grease your bike chain immediately after cleaning
No matter how often you use it, you should always have a bottle of chain oil on hand, which not only greases the chain, but also protects it from dirt and moisture. Turn the pedals slowly after cleaning and drying everything. Apply a single drop of oil for 2 or 4 links, in the place where they join. Once you are done with the chain, move on to the gears and apply another 10 to 12 drops to ensure that everything, including the cassette, is left with an even coat. Use the rag to wipe the excess oil off the chain when you're done, as it can collect dirt and cause grime to build up. If you are going to clean the rest of your bike, wait and do it last.
- The goal is to have a thin film of oil on the entire chain, without getting soggy. When you touch the chain, you should be left with a light coating on your fingers.
- Feel the chain with your fingers (if it feels dry, then you should apply more oil).
- Never use WD-40 lubricant on a bicycle chain (it is not made for inclement weather or heavy duty work).
Part 2 of 3: Cleaning the Frame and Wheels
Step 1. Support the bike on a platform, on a rack, against a tree, or upside down
Lay an old mat or sheet on the ground to protect the seat and handles from dirt and possible scratches if you've turned the bike upside down. Make sure you're in an open, well-ventilated area that can get wet without ruining anything.
Step 2. Spray the bike with a low pressure hose
You are not going to wash off the dirt with water, you are simply going to wet the bike and remove any loose dirt and grime before you start scrubbing.
Never use a high pressure hose or nozzle. This can cause water to enter components, forming internal rust or degreasing important joints
Step 3. Fill a bucket with water and add a generous dash of dish soap
You need a different bucket and sponge than the ones you used for the powertrain. Chain and cassette grease will stain the frame if you don't use clean implements, thus ruining all your old work.
Step 4. Remove the wheels
The idea is to clean the inside of the wheels as much as possible and get inside the frame with the sponge. Wheels make it difficult to clean parts of the bike that are closest to the ground and the tires, which are often the dirtiest places.
Step 5. Use the soft side of a sponge to clean the frame
Scrub the entire frame, which is the metal frame of the bike, with a sponge and soapy water. Never use a hard or abrasive brush on the frame, even for stubborn stains, or you could scratch the paint and make the bike prone to rust.
- If there is some grime that is very difficult to remove, apply a small drop of detergent or degreaser to the area, along with a little water, and let it work for several minutes. Scrub gently, making circular motions, until it is removed.
- If you have rod brakes (two black pads that fit on top of the wheel), use the rough side of the sponge to remove any build-up of grime on top of them.
- If you have disc brakes (attached to the metal disc on the wheels), wipe both sides with the soft part of the sponge.
Step 6. Clean the edges of the wheels
The tires, which will get dirty as soon as they hit the ground again, do not need to be cleaned. However, the metal frame of the wheel can collect grime that hinders the brakes. Use the abrasive side of the sponge to clean the edges and gently scrub each spoke, so your bike looks clean and shiny.
- Use a toothbrush to scrub the hub (the small cylinder in the center of the wheel) and the nuts and bolts on either side of it.
- If you want to clean the tires or you see large chunks of mud on the tires, use a large, very stiff-bristled brush (such as those sold along with the dustbins) to clean them quickly and easily.
Step 7. Use a clean cloth to reach deep into the rear cassette
The rear cassette is the set of gears at the back of the bike. Although you already cleaned it quickly when you cleaned the powertrain, you should take your time to make sure it is spotless by doing a thorough cleaning of your bike. Squirt a few drops of soapy water on the cassette, then use a clean cloth to "wipe" it between the gears to remove any accumulations of grime in the deepest part of the cassette.
Step 8. Pat everything dry and let the bike sit in the sun and outside
You don't want water to accumulate and soak up the parts of your bike. Grab a clean, dry cloth or towel to remove excess water. Focus on joints and parts where water could collect for a considerable time. When you're done, put the bike back together and let it air dry, preferably in the sun.
- If you support the bike on the seat and the handles, clean them when you return the bike to its original position before drying everything.
- If you are going to clean your bike on a humid or cloudy day, take more time to dry everything.
Part 3 of 3: Keeping the Bike Clean
Step 1. You have to know that cleaning your bicycle regularly will help you increase its useful life
Bikes are made of screws, pulleys, nuts, bolts, and cables, which need to run smoothly for you to keep riding. Rust, dirt and a lack of lubrication will cause the parts to rub and crush each other, increasing their wear and tear and causing your bike to malfunction. Being proactive when it comes to cleaning your bike will save you a lot of time and money later on.
Clean your bike with a damp cloth after riding where it got dirty, as this will save you a lot of time and trouble doing a "deep" cleaning
Step 2. Do a "quick clean" after touring wet or rainy areas
Dry your bike as best you can with a clean towel or rag and check the chain. Water and mud can get into the cassette and chain and cause serious problems over time, but they are easy to remove immediately after riding. Pat the chain and wipe off any dirt on the rings and derailleurs, then add 4-5 drops of oil to replenish any lubrication that you may have removed.
Check the chain (if it feels dry, take some time to do a full greasing)
Step 3. Apply 1 to 2 drops of bike oil to important parts, 2 to 3 times a year or after a deep cleaning
The chain is not the only part of the bike that needs to stay oiled to function well. The following parts may need a little oil, but not too much, to work well.
- The pivot points on the brakes, usually the part that holds both sides (rod brakes only).
- Use your fingers or a small cloth to coat the wires with a thin layer of oil.
- The gear levers, if exposed. Make sure you "only" use bike oil.
Step 4. Watch the powertrain very carefully
There are very few areas that get as dirty as the powertrain, but this is probably the most important area to clean. If you ride your bike every day, you will need to clean the chain, cassette, and derailleurs once a week or once every 2 weeks.
You will likely need to clean the powertrain more often than the rest of the bike. The least you have to do is check, clean and grease the chain 1 time a week or 1 time every 2 weeks
Step 5. Clean your bike regularly to protect it from rust and damage
You should wipe and clean it once a month, at least. A good benchmark is to clean it after you've done 20 or 25 runs. Then you can do a deep cleaning and re-oil it once or twice a year. However, in the following cases you must clean the bike completely:
- After a tour with a lot of water or mud.
- When you hear it squeak or the pieces collide with each other.
- When you see dirt, grease, or grime on the joints, brakes, gears, or chain.
Advice
- Remove very large accumulations of mud from your bike before washing it.
- Wax is not formulated for bicycles, so avoid it. It could run off and ruin parts.
- While you wash, give your bike a full inspection to look for any problems that may have developed. Repair or replace the parts when you have finished washing the bike.
- Instead of washing it, you can quickly wipe it with a damp towel. This works well if the bike is too dirty and may give you more time before cleaning it more thoroughly.
Warnings
- Use only bicycle oil, do not choose car oil or WD-40.
- Do not spray the bike with high pressure water, otherwise you may remove necessary grease and lubricants. You could also get to places where water shouldn't get in, like the hubs and pedal frames.