Buying a vintage stereo is a hobby that can quickly turn into an obsessive and overwhelming collection. The look, feel, and tone of old sound components have a unique charm, and these components often rival newer and more expensive models in quality. Unfortunately, old and neglected components are quite neglected, which means that you will need to learn how to clean vintage stereo equipment before you can use it. The steps below will guide you through the process of cleaning the interior of any audio component using a basic contact cleaner.
Steps
Part 1 of 2: Choosing a cleanser
Step 1. Buy a bottle of contact cleaner that is labeled "safe for use on plastics."
this is really important. Contact cleaner is a liquid or aerosol product designed to dissolve corrosion in metal electronic parts, which are the main cause of scratching and knocking sounds when moving the volume controls, knobs, or switches (for speaker selection, modes, source), microphone and headphone inputs, etc. While all contact cleaners work only on metal parts, most will destroy the safe plastics and lubricants located on and off almost any volume control, potentiometer, and switch.
Choosing a contact cleaner that restores equipment without damaging it is always a better choice than using an inexpensive cleaner, as replacing an original part once the internal plastic parts are broken or melted, or the metal shaft sticks., it is tedious or impossible in most cases, so it is best not to try to clean with a questionable product, and leave things as they are until you manage to get a contact cleaner that does not damage your precious treasure. You can usually buy a safe product at decent electronics stores or online, although it is important to make sure the product is shipped approved by the courier, as many contact cleaners are flammable and sometimes cannot be shipped via certain methods or to certain places
Step 2. Look for a brand that offers a quick-drying, residue-free application, as you won't be able to dry many of the internal components
CAIG Deoxit is a popular brand of contact cleaners and they have a specific "D5" to clean vintage stereo equipment the right way without damaging the plastic components. They are the industry leaders in audiophile contact cleaners, offering product support and advice for specific applications. "D5" is an industry standard in the broadcast world, and it easily removes oxidation from metals without damaging the internal plastic parts and lubricants that most audio potentiometers contain.
Step 3. Avoid using products not designed for use on plastics in classic stereo equipment
Avoid WD-40 (a reputable metal contact cleaner is not necessarily safe for all plastic parts) as it is not designed to be used on most parts that contain or contact plastic parts, or that require lubricants to move. Testing before using it might not be an option, so visit online forums for warnings before doing something irreversible. You could save yourself headaches and heartache.
Step 4. Read and understand all labels on the contact cleaner and, if in doubt, do not use it
The damage cannot be corrected. Equipment damaged or destroyed by unsafe contact cleaners on plastic can sometimes end up online (where you can't test before you buy) with no reference to missing or broken controls, so be sure to ask sellers if they are. Knobs and controls continue to rotate or slide freely without excessive force or if there are hidden breaks with glue on shafts, etc. You can usually buy some basic models of modern player volume controls inexpensively online, and test different contact cleaners on them to see which ones work and which ones don't, before risking genuine stereo parts.
Part 2 of 2: Clean the computer
Step 1. Unplug the stereo
To make sure no electricity flows through the internal components while cleaning them, unplug your stereo. Don't just turn it off; Completely unplug the cord from the outlet, or you could be killed. Keep in mind that you should have a qualified technician on hand, and while many cannot choose a contact cleaner wisely, they will be able to help you avoid an electric shock from a charged capacitor that could at least touch or burn your skin. hand to contact, even with the unit unplugged for a long time. Be careful and look for electrolytic capacitors for information.
Step 2. Remove the cover from the stereo component
The component housing is usually removed by loosening a few bolts or nuts. These screws are often located on the sides, rear, and bottom of the unit. Not all of the on a surface are to hold the case, so be careful what you unscrew happens to remove only the case screws. After removing them, set them aside or put them in numbered containers to fit into the correct holes that you can then put labels on (taking photos can help too), and then gently lift the cover off the chassis.
Step 3. Spray compressed air inside the unit if necessary
If the interior components look particularly dirty, you can remove the dust with a can of compressed air. Do not try to wipe off the dust with a cloth, as a clumsy movement could disconnect or damage delicate electronic components, or scratch a shiny plastic faceplate.
Step 4. Moderately spray contact cleaner on parts to be cleaned
Contact cleaner can be used to remove accumulated rust or dirt from most internal parts of a stereo component, but typically you will want to clean contacts that cause problems beyond what they look like. Spray a thin coat of the contact cleaner on any component you think has oxidation problems, applying a thicker coat in areas that show a significant amount of rust. It sprays the inputs, the connectors, any switches or removable connectors that are not soldered, and certainly the battery contacts, if any, as these cause most of the problems and may even need additional friction to clean, or there is need to replace them if acid from alkaline batteries has eaten them away.
Contact cleaner dries in the air in a few hours; You don't need to wipe it over, but avoid spraying things you don't want affected, such as rubber tapes, friction wheels, pulleys, motor shafts, meter displays, bulbs, audio / video heads, windows, or faceplates of dials. Good luck cleaning any of these if they do get foggy. Be sure not to soak the high-voltage switches, as at some point they could catch fire, so please do not flood the high-voltage power switches with contact cleaners, as they almost never need to be cleaned and it is safer to replace them
Step 5. Clean the potentiometers with contact cleaner
Pots, or knobs, are the components most likely to have rust. To clean them, locate the small hole in the back assembly or the large opening where the pins are soldered to the board. Spray a moderate amount of contact cleaner into the hole or openings, of which there are usually two separate ones on the stereo knobs, and then move them back and forth continuously for about a minute. This will spread the contact cleaner all over the inside of the potentiometer.
Step 6. Clean the sliders and buttons as you did with the knobs
To clean buttons and sliders, you will sometimes need to spray contact cleaner behind the controls from the front of the unit if access from the inside is impossible without considerable disassembly. After spraying the cleaner, press the button or slide the control back and forth for about a minute. Any excess cleaner that drips onto the faceplate of the unit can be removed with an anti-scratch microfiber cloth.
Step 7. Let the unit air dry for several hours
After applying contact cleaner to any part of your vintage stereo equipment, let the unit sit without a case for a few hours. This will help you make sure that all of the contact cleaner is dry.
Step 8. Replace the component housing
Carefully replace the casing, and be sure to use the nuts and bolts you removed, screwing them in first with your fingertips, then with a screwdriver. Make sure you don't force or tighten them too much, as this can break the thread and easily break the plastic. Do you remember the force it took to loosen the screws in the first place? Only after you have put the case in place will you be able to connect the sound system and test it. Any leftover screw will mean the assembly needs to be rechecked, as each screw is there for a reason, otherwise manufacturers would save parts and time if not absolutely necessary for safety or robustness. Good luck!
Advice
- The exterior of the stereo can be cleaned using an all-purpose cleaner or mild soap.
- Be careful when cleaning the exterior of vintage gear to avoid damaging it.
Warnings
- The above instructions should only be followed for cleaning transistor equipment, not bulb equipment. Bulbs can carry a lethal electrical charge for months after being disconnected, and should only be handled by professionals.
- Contact cleaner is highly flammable, and should not be used near fire, lit cigarettes, or sources of high heat.